- Itinerary: Twenty-two days by train in France
- Back from France: Intro to Upcoming Series
- Days 1&2: Bordeaux, Sleep Deprivation, and the Case of the Missing Driver
- Day 3: Saint-Émilion, Wine, and Glimpses of Heaven
- The Arguing Old Couple. “Il est trés fou!”
- Day 4: A Travel Buddy in Amboise
- Day 5: Chateau Amboise and Solo Travel Revelations
- Day 6: Being Lazy in Amboise
- Day 7: Chateaux of the Loire Valley
- Amboise and Rude Americans
- Day 8: Dark Alleys and Fear in Sarlat-la-Canéda
- Solo Travel: Crushing Loneliness
- Day 9: Touring Les Plus Beaux Villages de Dordogne
- Day 10: An Evening of Tears in Carcassonne
- Day 11: Arles and Falling in Love
- Day 12: Gender Normative Behavior in Arles
- Day 12: Roman Ruins, Van Gogh, and Body Positivity in Arles
- Day 13: Catcalls and a Lost Reservation in Nice
- Day 13: There’s No Cerveza on this French Menu!
- Day 14: The Beauty of Nice
- Day 15: Eeeezeeee Does It At Éze Village
- Day 16: Wishing for Longer in Lyon
- Day 17: Getting To Chamonix-Mont-Blanc By Train Is Not For The Weak
- Day 18: L’Aiguille du Midi
- Day 19: Annecy
I am setting up this post to publish on Sunday, July 7th, which is the day of my brother’s wedding. So, if you read this on the 7th, know that I am in the midst of a ton of emotions. Please think of me and wish me well. More on that in Wednesday’s post, though.
For now, here is everything about my day in Éze Village.
Upon reading the email letting him know I was taking off to Éze for the day, my dad replied, “Eeeezeee does it!” He doesn’t speak any French. Also, he tells horrible jokes. Also, his horrible jokes always make me laugh, and then I get mad at myself for laughing. It’s a thing.
A Day in Éze
Today was a glorious day.
It started with a quick breakfast at the beautiful hotel in Nice, then washing my hair for the first time in [redacted; we’ll just pretend it was recent]. I watched the Game of Thrones premiere on my phone while my hair dried. And then, I went out.
Walking down the street with my hair clean and down for the first time in weeks was a fascinating experience. Whereas before I had been striving to be invisible, suddenly, I was noticed. I received a lot more male attention. Not the gross, “Heyyyyy everyone look there’s a person who probably has a vagina let’s all stare and make lewd noises,” kind that I had been trying to avoid; the admiring, respectful, fun kind. Men made eye contact and smiled. They admired but did so from a distance and didn’t comment on my appearance or leer. It was nice. It was flattering. I admit I don’t think I’ve felt that in a while, either on this trip or at home. It was rather lovely.
My destination on this particular day was a nearby town called Éze. Nice was a bit more crowded and bustling than I like, and a few friends had suggested I might enjoy Éze. I jumped on a train and away I went.
It was gorgeous there. I had lunch by the shore. There was the occasional swish of a car gliding by, but otherwise, the sea was the only sound. No motorcycles, no honking, no sirens, no overwhelming cacophony of languages and shouting and children shrieking.
There was no agenda for my time in Éze. I hadn’t done any research before going. I arrived in time for lunch and it was only while I was eating that I took a look online to see what Éze might have to offer.
This is when I learned there was a village a short bus ride away from the train station, high up in the hills I gazed at with longing yesterday.
Eze is one of the stops on the picturesque 40km stretch of railway line that runs east along the coast from Nice to Ventimiglia at the Italian border, passing through Monaco and Menton on the way. Listed in most of the guidebooks, the commune of Eze is structured on three layers up the side of a mountain and is famous for its eagle’s nest Village, perched at an altitude of 450m.Eze Village and the Nietzsche trail, French Riviera Blog
And within that village, botanical gardens.
The bus stop, by sheer happy coincidence, was right across the street from the restaurant where I was enjoying lunch. I finished up, paid, and then went and hopped onto the next bus.
Éze Village is about 1400 feet above sea level, and the bus ride was a crazy 15 minute journey up steep hills with intense switchbacks. The bus driver was incredibly comfortable with the route, and I laughed as he took each hairpin turn at full speed. Next to the narrow road was a steep drop off, but it was clear we were in no danger of falling.
The village was, of course, beautiful, as were the gardens. My hope of getting away from crowds somewhat did not pan out, but I appreciated the scenery.
Thus, today’s photos. Enjoy.